ION Journal Hermine Bonvallet Fear Facing Big Wave Surfing

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Fear facing with Hermine Bonvallet

How to step up your surfing to bigger waves

The ocean is a place of serenity and chaos, offering both the calming rhythm of its waves and the terrifying power of its giants. For big wave surfers, like the accomplished Hermine Bonvallet, it isn't just about physical skill—it's a mental game. What does it take to paddle out into new spheres, to conquer fear, and to commit to a wave that takes you out of your comfort zone? We delve into the psychology behind big wave surfing, guided by Hermine's insights into focus, resilience, and how to step up your game and wave size.

GET TO KNOW HERMINE

ARE BIG WAVE SURFERS FEARLESS?
No.

CHOOSE: TOW-IN OR PADDLING?
Tow-in, easy.

GETTING BARRELLED OR BIG WAVES?
If I was a good tube rider, I would say barrel and as I'm not I will still say barrel because it's still on my mind. Yeah, definitely barrel.

WHAT ARE YOUR FEARS?
I think getting injured is even scarier in that dying.
So I would say the kind of injury word do you never come back.

WHAT ARE YOUR STRENGHTS?
That's motivating people.
To achieve your dreams like, that's basically why I started to do what I do. And definitely jet ski skills.

YOUR FAVORITE TYPE OF WAVE?
The perfect right. Long, big like a four to six meters and like a big wall where you can just like, first of all, go super fast down and also give turns.
Like this is my dream. Kind of the massive right of Nazaè.

How to step out of your comfort zone

FEAR AS THE START OF SOMETHING NEW

Hermine wasn’t always comfortable in the ocean. In fact, she spent 17 years terrified of it. “As a kid, I was fine in pools or lagoons, but the deep blue? I was scared of fish, scared of not seeing what was beneath me,” she admits.

Surfing changed everything. “The board gave me the possibility to rediscover the ocean—a whole new world. If I hadn’t started surfing and faced my fears, I wouldn’t be where I am today.”

She believes fear isn’t something to fight but something to face. “Once you face it, you realize—it wasn’t that bad.” This philosophy is at the core of her retreats, where she helps others work through their fears. “When people see others pushing past fear, it inspires them to do the same. Some need competition to push through, others need safety. It’s all about personalizing the process.”

ON CREWS, LUCK & MENTAL GAME

One big role in Hermine’s quick rise in big wave surfing is her crew (shout out to the Red Herrings). Many people don’t know that it takes a whole entourage when surfing in massive waves. Checking the forecast, coordinating on the beach, towing & rescuing, filming – it takes many people to make it happen. Being part of a solid crew that has your back and that you call friends certainly helps in the line up. On big days there is no one not surfing, “we take turns in rescuing, coordinating, etc. so everyone gets their wave. For me it was very easy and great because of those people that surround me every time I'm going to the water and they encourage me and they had brought so much fun into my daily surf life.”.

When being asked if she got lucky meeting the right people at the right time, she replied that she doesn’t believe in luck. While being grateful and feeling blessed she firmly believes that she earned where she is right now. Realizing that you worked hard for your opportunities and attributing the good things that happen to your mindset really helps shift your mental game to giving yourself credit for what you achieved. This is another powerful tool in getting the right mindset for confidence and bigger waves.

SHIFTING YOUR PERSPECTIVE

Fear is natural and no big wave surfer is not afraid. It’s all about how you deal with it. Know that you can always say no to a session or a wave. It’s in your hands and if you go, do it with full commitment. “If I'm scared, it's because I choose to be there and to be scared there and I choose to be happy when I go over this fear.” For Hermine it’s all about persevering her mental happiness. For this she gives herself little mental cues, that help her get back on track during the session. She recently created a new custom board – pink, glittery, fun. Basically, everything a scary 30 foot wave on the horizon is not. Seeing this board in the waves brings her joy, which helps her center back in the moment.

»My post-surf ritual is simple—I turn back, look at the horizon and the ocean, and give the ocean a kiss or a few words: ‘Thank you so much for what I get to live every day and for the love I have for you.«
—

CREATE YOUR ROUTINE

Pre and post surf rituals

Rituals help Hermine stay present and connected before and after each session.

PRE SURF RITUALS
Before paddling out, her mindset is all about preparation and focus.

“In big waves, it’s all about ‘hurry up and wait, hurry up and wait.’ There’s always fear and pressure, so I go through my routine: checking my gear once, twice, making sure everything is set, making sure my team is okay.”

Then, she takes a moment for herself. “For a few seconds, I go deep within. I remind myself: ‘You chose to be here. Live it 100%. You’re lucky. And do it for all your friends who helped you get here.’”

This grounding practice helps her shift from preparation mode to full presence in the moment.

POST SURF RITUALS
“My post-surf ritual is simple—I turn back, look at the horizon and the ocean, and give the ocean a kiss or a few words: ‘Thank you so much for what I get to live every day and for the love I have for you.’”

For her, this moment of gratitude is a deep acknowledgment of the connection between herself and the ocean.

EXPAND YOUR PERSPECTIVE

Beyond surfing, Hermine has developed a deep connection with jet ski riding, which has completely changed her perspective on big waves.

“It brings so much—security, more options, and a different kind of patience,” she explains. Rather than just a tool for towing or rescuing, she sees it as an extension of her surfing skills, requiring balance, strength, and precise timing.

Unlike surfing, where the ocean dictates the rhythm, riding a jet ski allows her to actively shape the session—choosing where and when to be in the lineup. “You discover the place you’ve always been in a completely different way,” she says.

But even if a jetski is not an option for you right now, there a more ways to expand your perspective on the ocean. Wether you go for an ocean swim, body surfing or simply just being out in more powerful waves will build your confidence. Go where you feel your fear but still feel confident that you can commit. This could be going for the bigger sets each session, sitting deeper or paddling faster.

Be where your fears are, so you get used to them. “You’ll probably fail. You’ll probably fall. And that’s fine. What matters is learning how to handle that vulnerable moment.”

HOW TRAINING OUTSIDE OF SURFING WILL HELP YOU

While some surfers rely purely on time in the ocean, others benefit from additional training. “It depends on the person,” says Hermine. “If training feels like a chore, maybe it’s not for you. But for me, it was natural—I had already been doing sports my whole life.”

That said, certain physical and mental preparations can make a big difference:

Strengthen deep muscles – Core, back, legs, and neck stability are crucial.
Improve cardio & stress tolerance – Being out of breath in big surf is inevitable, so train your body to stay calm under pressure.
Apnea training – Practicing breath-holding will help you feel more in control during hold-downs.
Ocean immersion – Swimming, bodysurfing, and simply being in powerful waves builds natural confidence.

BECAUSE IT'S NOT ONLY ABOUT PHYSICAL SKILLS

Besides the physical training, Hermine puts a big emphasis on mental preparation. You can be the fittest person in the line up but if your mind is not ready, you’ll probably enjoy less and make less progress. A big tool next to affirmations is a journaling practice that keeps you grounded and focused.

“Journaling brings what’s in your mind onto the paper, and it helps you prioritize what you want first,” she shares. Take these journal prompts as as start and tweak them to your preferences as you go:

Gratitude: “I’m so grateful for today. I learned this, this, this…”
Intentions & support: “I’d love some support on this, this, and that to continue achieving my goals.”
Affirmations: “I’m capable of (...). I deserve what I get. I’m surrounded by the best people.”

These daily reflections help Hermine align her mind with her goals, creating a powerful mental foundation that supports her physical training and ocean exploits.

Facing fear, finding freedom

At the heart of it all, fear is an opportunity to grow. Hermine’s journey—from being terrified of the ocean to charging massive waves—proves that pushing through fear can open up an entirely new world.

Whether it’s surfing bigger waves, overcoming a personal challenge, or stepping into the unknown, her message is clear: Face your fear, and the reward will be greater than you ever imagined.